O, Canada!
Ottawa, in 1857 picked by Queen Victoria to be the capital of the province of Canada, has grown into a beautiful, walkable city. In a week there, it wasn’t possible to see all it has to offer—at least not at the leisurely pace befitting a vacation. Early June was an idea time for a visit, too, perfect weather for long walks along the Ottawa River and Rideau Canal, and not yet overrun with tourists. (That can’t be said for mid-May, when the area hosts the world’s largest tulip festival—a gift in perpetuity to Canada for sheltering the Dutch Royal Family during the German occupation of the Netherlands in World War II.)
Parliament buildings, Ottawa (photo: author)
The main government buildings—Parliament and the Supreme Court—are spectacular gothic revival style, reportedly modeled on the picturesque nearby hotel, the Fairmont Chateau Laurier. The hotel’s opening was delayed some months because the developer, bringing furniture from England, died aboard the Titanic. Today, it’s the favored hotel for visiting dignitaries; the Prime Minister of Australia was a guest when we were there.
Ottawa was selected as the capital, in part because of its inland position, the War of 1812 having revealed how vulnerable to attack by Americans the country’s then-major cities—Toronto, Montreal, and Quebec City—were, all located on the St. Lawrence River. Nevertheless, Ottawa had strong transportation connections via the Ottawa River, which joins the St. Lawrence and the Rideau Canal. For a tourist today, these waterways are part of the city’s charm.
Like any national capital, Ottawa offers numerous museums and tours of government and official residences. Especially interesting was the Canadian War Museum, where the story begins with early skirmishes with and among Native Americans and ends with Canada’s role in international peacekeeping efforts, spearheaded by Nobel Prize-winning former Prime Minister Lester Pearson. Much attention is given to the country’s contributions in World War I, where the nation attained international recognition, most notably at the Battle of Vimy Ridge.
Separately, tourists can visit the Diefenbunker, a Cold War-era underground shelter for the government’s most important officials (but not their families) in case of nuclear attack. The names comes from former Prime Minister John George Diefenbaker (Dief the Chief), who had it built some miles outside the capital. Elaborate though the design of the multi-storied bunker is, it was soon outmoded by increasingly powerful atomic weapons and the short warning times enabled by intercontinental ballistic missiles. The accompanying helipad has been used once.
National Gallery of Canada, Ottawa (photo: author)
The National Gallery of Canada is huge, its architecture a modern take on the gothic revival theme, with an entire floor devoted to Canadian artists. That’s where I spent my time, as I’m a huge fan of Emily Carr and the Group of Seven.
In the middle of this floor is the Rideau Chapel, disassembled and reconstructed from the to-be-demolished Convent of Our Lady of the Sacred Heart in Ottawa. A special exhibit there is Janet Cardiff’s “Forty-Part Motet,” separately recorded singing of a 16th-century choir piece by 40 voices played back through 40 speakers. Visitors can experience the piece as a whole, or, walking around the chapel, listen to individual voices. An amazing experience (audio clip excerpt–don’t miss).
The great thing is, there’s no pressure to see it all. You can easily spend an afternoon cruising the river, biking the canal path, or in the bustling ByWard market area sipping lemonade and contemplating which of the city’s many delightful restaurants you’ll visit that evening. A very special evening at Beckta deserves mention. I did not take a picture of my food.
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